While staying in Lisbon, it is easy to jump on a train to all the towns around the area. You can take the local train to Sintra. Train tickets are E2.60 and it is a 40-minute train ride. From the train station, you can get a taxi, tuk-tuk, or a bus. We walked because we wanted to find some coffee and check out the town. We walked through an enchanted display of artwork and sunken garden and it took us about 20 minutes to walk to Quinta Da Regaleria. We were going to go the Pena Palace, the castle in the sky, but it was foggy and when you looked up you couldn’t see the castle, so we decided on the Regaleria.
Sintra, a quaint town, is nestled in the foothills of the Sintra mountains. It’s a magical and fairy-tale town hosting the Pena Palace and Quinta da Regaleira, with lush gardens, a hidden cave network, and forested pathways that connect the ornamental lakes, chapel, and the Poco Iniciatico (The Initiation Well). The Quinta da Regaleria was said to have been built by an eccentric Free Mason. It houses the Initiation Well and filled with Pagan and occult symbols. The owner bought the land in 1892, construction began in 1904 and was mostly finished by 1910.
Travel tip; if you are visiting Sintra between May and October, expect two-hour waits to enter any of the palaces. We visited in January and there was no wait for any of the attractions in Quinta da Regaleria. I may have seen thirty other people in the gardens. Locals have told us that we are lucky to have had the experience of enjoying the stillness of the area. I prefer it quiet and wouldn’t mind returning in January or February again.
The tickets to Quinta da Regaleria are E25 per person. A deal for 3 hours of being emerged into another time and place.
You start your journey by following a garden pathway to towers and sunken gardens. We wanted to find the Initiation well first. The Initiation well is a mysterious, inverted tower constructed around a well. It descends by a spiral staircase to a Knights Templar Cross inscribed on the floor. Secretive religious ceremonies inspired its design, but possibly also hosted them. I did a little research and there is talk that the well was designed to represent the nine circles of Dante’s Inferno. Although it is only six stories deep, the experience of walking down the well makes it feel like it extends further. As we walked into the well, the surrounding sounds were muted. We walked slowly not to interrupt the serenity of the well. I felt like we were in an Indiana Jones movie. So much history and the energy was very calming to me.
The one ornate chapel, a beautiful gothic-style tower with an interior that features Knights Templar icons, and a secret passageway leading from the crypt to the Palacioda Regaleia. This pathway was closed to the public during our visit. The stained glass windows were breathtaking, and the altar had gold leaf throughout it, making the chapel seem golden because the sunlight hits the gold leaf.
The last stop was the Main Palace. It is slender gothic style reaches into the sky, and the surrounding greenery hid half of the stone walls. It is a magical castle in an enchanted forest. When we walked in, I felt like I was at home. It smelt like my grandparent’s farm in Ontario, that lingering not-so-musty smell, but it’s there, a memory that floats by every so often. The interior and the furnishings are well preserved and restored. The wooden walls are carved beautifully. The artists took great care in the details. I took a picture of a chair in the smoking room, exclusively for Monterio, other men of the house and their male friends. They would go to the smoking room to smoke and chat. I wonder what they would be chatting about?
We wandered around the gardens a little more and then made our way back to town. We stopped at an art shop to find a poster we could take home to frame, a few other souvenirs to remind us of this magical place.
The walk back to the train was as beautiful, the sun was breaking the clouds and the sunken gardens were providing more colors of flowers emerging and glistening tree tops. There are times where I thought to myself, “I could live here.” We both said we would go back to spend a full day in Sintra. For now, we have our memories of the stunning palaces and charm of Sintra.
Thank you for stopping by. Next time, I will share a little more about Lisbon and Cascais.
Until Next Time, Keep on Typing…